The Road That Changes You
At 4,551 metres above sea level, the Kunzum Pass sits under a sky so blue it looks painted. Below you, a switchback road disappears into a valley of dusty ochre and cold grey rock. There are no trees. There is almost no oxygen. There is nowhere else on earth quite like the Spiti Valley.
Spiti — meaning "The Middle Land" — is a high-altitude cold desert tucked between the greater Himalaya and the Tibetan plateau. It sits in Himachal Pradesh but feels like a different planet. The landscape shifts from pine forests near Shimla to stark lunar terrain as you ascend, and the people, largely Tibetan Buddhist, move through their days with a stillness that the altitude seems to demand.
Two routes in: Manali–Kaza (via Rohtang Pass and Kunzum La) or Shimla–Kaza (via Kinnaur). The Manali route is more dramatic and accessible in summer. The Shimla route is open longer into the season and passes through the stunning Kinnaur valley.
The Classic Manali–Kaza Route (7–10 Days)
Day 1–2: Manali. Acclimatise, stock up on supplies, get your Inner Line Permit (required for Indian nationals in certain areas; foreigners need a Protected Area Permit).
Day 3: Manali → Chhatru (via Rohtang). Long drive — 100 km, 7+ hours. The road is rough after the pass.
Day 4: Chhatru → Kaza (via Kunzum Pass). The valley opens up here. Stop at Chandratal Lake — one of the most beautiful mountain lakes in Asia.
Day 5–6: Base yourself in Kaza. Day trips to Key Monastery, Kibber village (one of the world's highest inhabited villages), and the fossil-rich Langza.
Day 7–8: Kaza → Tabo → Nako. The ancient Tabo Monastery (996 AD) contains the oldest surviving murals in the Himalayas.
Day 9–10: Return via Shimla–Kinnaur or fly back from Bhuntar Airport near Kullu.
Altitude Safety — Read Before You Go
Altitude Safety — Read Before You Go
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is real and can be dangerous. Ascend slowly, drink 3–4 litres of water daily, and avoid alcohol for the first 48 hours above 3,500m.
Carry Diamox (Acetazolamide) — consult your doctor before the trip. Symptoms of AMS include severe headache, nausea, and breathlessness at rest. If symptoms worsen, descend immediately.
The nearest proper hospital is in Manali or Shimla — mobile coverage is limited to BSNL in most of Spiti.
Where to Stay and What to Eat
Accommodation: Homestays are the soul of Spiti travel. Staying with a local family in Kibber or Langza costs ₹500–800 per person per night, includes meals, and gives you a window into Tibetan Buddhist village life that no hotel can replicate. In Kaza, options range from budget guesthouses (₹400–700) to comfortable boutique stays like Spiti Ecosphere (also an excellent conservation NGO to support).
Food: The cuisine is simple and warming — thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup), tsampa (roasted barley flour), and momos are staples. In Kaza you'll find small dhabas serving dal, rice, and sabzi. Carry energy bars, nuts, and chocolate for the road — there are long stretches with zero food options.
Fuel: Fill your tank in Manali and top up at every opportunity. Petrol pumps are scarce beyond Gramphoo.
Priya Menon, Kafira Travels
Spiti doesn't reward the unprepared, but it gives everything to those who arrive with patience, humility, and a good down jacket.
— Priya Menon, Kafira Travels
